Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Quilotoa Loop

We left Baños this morning. The town was a bit too touristy, but beautiful landscape as all of Ecuador. We did a bit of hiking there, soaked in the thermal baths which turned out to be public pools with crowds even at 6 am, then went out on the town to sing Cranberries and Eagles songs at a karaoke bar for Andy´s birthday last night. Karaoke is big here, and people seem to have an ecclectic taste for American hits.

Today we left for Latacunga, a market town. We are staying in a hostal for $3 per person tonight (no windows), then leaving in the mañana for the Quilotoa loop. Many reviews claim this to be the best trip in Ecuador. The trip consists of getting really confused trying to find different buses that run at irregular hours like 3 am to tiny mountain towns in order to see a beautiful lake at the top of a volcano. So far we have had very good luck with buses, and we hope this continues. If not, we get a little lost and that´s fine. We will probably be out of contact for the next 4 days. We´ll let you know how it goes.

Love,
Lauren

Sunday, March 22, 2009

Photos

If you look to your upper right, you will notice a nice link to our photobucket site. You can now actually click on it, sorry that didn´t work before. We will try to update photos every week or so.

We are in Baños, the town of thermal baths and tourists (not toilets). Tomorrow is Andy´s birthday and we are going on a mountain bike ride towards Puyo. The mountains are very steep and we are not far from the jungle,though we probably won´t venture into the Amazon until Peru. Our hostal is near a waterfall. The landscape is beautiful and volcanic. Very steep mountains in every direction - you wouldn´t believe the verticle degree of the farms around here. We hiked up one today. Last night we checked out the town´s three bars and a discotec where we practiced our gringo-salsa moves we learned in Quito. Tomorrow we have to get up at 5:30 am to avoid the crowds at the thermal baths.

Thanks for reading.

Love.

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Rain and shine

Quick update - We have been staying with some friends from Spanish class. They rented us a room at $20 for the week! The apartment is new and on the mountain. Our window looks up at Pinchincha, the volcano in Quito. We take a really crowded bus to school every morning. Tomorrow is the last day of school, and we are off to Baños and the jungle for a week or so. We have to come back to Quito to pick up some mail, then we are off again to the coast, Cuenca and Loja where we will start the farm. The climate should be nice in Loja.

Things are great. We even figured out how to get money from a bank teller rather than the ATM today. We aren't too sick any more, we eat a lot of chocolate, we are cooking for ourselves now - a blessing, and we are practicing Spanish every day. Tonight we may go grab a beer with our teachers. As they say, drinking makes your Spanish better (or as my dad says, one beer makes your Spanish better and any more makes you forget all of your vocabulary). We'll see how it goes.

Otherwise, we are just living here. Still dodging traffic. It rains every afternoon. I keep forgetting that it's winter here.

Love,
Lauren

Sunday, March 15, 2009

Team Gringo

We have been staying with a family in a fairly posh apartment in Quito for the last week. Señora AnnaLucia and her husband Alfonzo are taking care of us. Anna cooks us dinner, and they both speak slowly and simply for us. We are able to converse about simple things like agriculture and tourist spots. They are very nice people, but it is a bit expensive to do homestays, so we are waiting to hear back from some people we met in language school who are renting a 3 bedroom house for $300US per month. We hope to rent a cheap room from them next week, to complete our last week of language school in Quito.

Last Thursday we went on a fieldtrip to a market outside of a major volcano called Cotopaxi. The bus rides to destinations outside of Quito are my favorite (though I am always slightly ill in buses). The farmscapes are amazing because the volcanic mountain ranges boarder the agriculture. Our spanish teachers walked us around like puppies pointing out the various tropical fruits and such. We are such gringos. I can´t wait until we can speak a little better so people don´t look at us with such suspicion. Most of the time, however, people are very nice and helpful. They are very used to US and E.U. tourists here. The ¨newtown¨ nightlife reminds me of the nightlife in any other major US city, except you can drink on the streets at any age. If you try, you can even find an $8 cocktail. Otherwise 24 oz bottles of beer are only $1, though we have been a little too nauseas to drink very much beer. They have english language bookstores in this area as well.

Old town Quito is much less touristy. Sunday in Old Town is quite lively. There are enormous Spanish colonial churches, studded with gold on the entire interior on every other block. We even caught a University jazz festival there today. Quito really is beautiful, with the surrounding volcano range and the impressive architecture. However, it is very crowded with street vendors and with taxis and buses the stop for no one. We look forward to getting out of the city for good next weekend. We plan on heading to the jungle and to the coast before our first farm in Loja, southern Ecuador (5 hours from Peru by bus).

Not too much else to say. We are getting over stomach aches every other day, and dodging traffic while we are out, but we are having fun. Andy is about to post some pictures... stay on the edge of your seat.

Love.

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Visit with Vanessa

After our language class yesterday, we were picked up at our school by Children's International, a non-profit organization that my Bubbie sponsors a child through. Her name is Vanessa Aleman Cartuche, 16 years old now. Bubbie has been sponsoring her for 8 years now, a good deed she began when my grandfather died in 2001.

We had the meeting all arranged from the States and were in contact with Children's Int'l Kansas City office. Bubbie got a letter in the mail explaining how we were to contact Children's Int'l in Quito, and cell phone numbers for staff here.

Pedro Diaz was the staff person that organized our Sponsor to Child visit. He's in his late 20's and has family in Texas, but grew up in a small town in Ecuador.

Pedro called Vanessa's town as La Luna de Pobres -- The Moon of The Poor. It's a suburb located in South Quito, in the hills above the city.

When we got there, the road of stylized cinder blocks continued only 50 yards from the main highway. We were pleased to see amongst the shanty-esque houses that are typical in Ecuador, a small single story building with a Children's International sign on it. Lots of children were waiting outside, and we were escorted in to take a tour.

Vanessa was waiting patiently for us inside. We met her and vaguely recognized her from a picture my Bubbie gave me that we kept with us. The first thing she did was hug us. I pulled out from my backpack a picture of Bubbie that I printed to give her, and the care package of jewelery, a hankercheif, and some Snickers (Bubbie has a big sweet tooth if you didn't know).

Pedro Diaz took us around the building with Vanessa, showing us the library, computer room (4 computers - mainly for the sponsored children in the town), and a doctor/dentist office - one doctor, who was giving a kid an annual teeth cleaning.

We followed Vanessa to the classroom/library, and there we met her teacher, mom, and sister. We got to sit down with Vanessa and her mom, and Pedro Diaz was able to translate what Lauren and I couldn't understand, or couldn't figure out how to say in Spanish. Vanessa seemed to know a bit of English, but was a bit embarrased to try, as we were a bit embarrased to try Spanish. Amongst the barriers, we were able to have a meaningful conversation and learn a bit about eachother.

Vanessa is obsessed with John Travolta and Marilyn Monroe (she sported a 50's sweater) and is has been a good student all the way through schooling, as her parents are very supporting and pushing to achieve more than what they were raised with (something not very common with parents as Pedro explained). Vanessa is now in the secondary part of her highschool education, which is optional, and is studying mathematics and physics. Her mom is a full time mother, with one of her sisters being deaf, and her dad is a locksmith. She wants to go to LA and meet the stars (as we all do I suppose).

In summary, our visit was very special, for all of us. We hugged and they couldn't be greatful enough for supporting their family, something Lauren and I couldn't take responsibilty for, but which we will convey to Bubbie. Lauren and I were just stoked to meet some locals and catch a peak into Ecuadorian life. It was a great coincidence that our first destination was where Vanessa lived, and we are greatful to Bubbie for having us deliver the gift to her. If anybody appreciates pictures, it's Bubbie, and I can't to show her pictures of our visit. It will mean a lot to her.

Love,
Andy

Sunday, March 8, 2009

Otavalo and back

Otavalo is a small town with one very large market. Friday night was dead upon our arrival because everyone had to get up Saturday morning to haul their livestock to the aminal market at 5 am. We got there around 730 and the chickens were still kickin'. Cows, sheep, bunnies, chickens, pigs, baby chickens, baby sheep, baby pigs, and about 1,000 people. That was over early, but only about a half mile away the famous Otavalo craft market boomed with colorful, handmade wool products amongst other crafts and plenty of street food. I (Lauren Jennifer Powell) bought some goofy overalls, of course. Andy added to his collection of belts made for children.

When we tired of the market, we set out for Lago San Pablo. The bus dropped us off at the wrong stop and we ended up walking for about 2 hours through a town without any finished buildings, then through the most beautiful corn fields. An enormous volcano sat before us. We did see the lake, but we missed the walking path. However, the walk through the town and farmscape was much more enjoyable. We passed a few old women hauling large packs of produce or hearding sheep. They were suprised to see us on their path, but everyone was friendly nonetheless. In fact, the people in Otavalo were much friendlier than those in Quito. It was a very safe place, with many people of all ages bustling about until midnight after the market. It was quite refreshing after the hectic experience of Quito in our first week.

We are now back in Quito to start a language program tomorrow. Tonight we are in a less busy area than before, so we are at ease. Tomorrow we start our homestay with an Ecuadorian family. We've decided to do it here because we get a good discount through an organization we joined that provides resources and discounts for traveling gringos like us (they even have club houses in all of the major cities down here). Speaking of gringos, we have met so many people in our hostals (which have been very nice with DELICOUS breakfasts). Many people are traveling alone and meet people in hostals to travel with. The hostal crowd cracks me up because we are all very similar people, but from very different continents (mostly N. America, Europe or Australia). Several people we've met are doing the same exact trip as we are. There are also plenty of organized groups. We have yet to meet another couple traveling together.

Although we are not too excited about the big city, our Spanish improves daily, and the classes will help a lot. We will take a dance class and a cooking class as well. After another week we plan on heading South to the Cotopaxi volcano and the town of Banos to soak in some natural hot springs. We'd like to do some sort of a guided trek in Cotopaxi. After that we'd like to make it to the coast, then to Loja where we are STILL waiting to hear confirmation from our first farm. If that doesn't work out we'll simply move on to Peru.

So far we have had some interesting lessons in tourism. First, tourists will ALWAYS get charged more than locals in a taxi. Second, look 4 ways before you cross the street. Third, wash your hands and drink 3-4 liters of water per day (without drowning). Fourth, none of us are 'volunteers', we are fortunate travelers, and the people that help us when we are lost are extremely kind hearted. I'm sure I will have more to say on this as we go along. And Fifth, carry small change.

We hope to be able to upload pictures this week. Thanks for your posts. Send e mails too!

Ciao!

Lauren and Andy

Thursday, March 5, 2009

I have a bathroom

We are still struggling with Spanish. Yesterday Andy asked a restaraunt owner if "I have a bathroom", rather than if "you have a bathroom". I got a kick out of it until I tried speaking with some Ecuadorians later in the day and slipped into Spanglish because they spoke English better than I spoke Spanish. We are gringos, no doubt about it.

We are still in Quito, staying at our original hostal and still trying to figure out whether we want to stay in Quito for another week and start a language program here, or if we want to move on to a town slightly north of here, and recommended by Janet Reese and Meghan Grodeon, called Otavalo. Quito is very hectic and the air is bad due to bus traffic, however there are many other travelers around and the Ecuadorians here are interested in us and willing to converse with our poor Spanish. Otavalo, on the other hand, is supposed to be beautiful, more rural and much smaller than Quito. We will probably end up doing another week in Quito for language, then one week in Otavalo before week head south and to the coast. Eventually we hope to work on a farm in Loja (the most southern major city in Ecuador).

Now that I have exposed our indecisive travel logic, I'll fill you in on what we have been doing. First you must know that Quito has an elevation of nearly 10,000 feet. Our first night we were out of breath walking up two flights of stairs and a bit nauseous. Our first day we felt a bit better so we decided to walk to "New Town", or Mariscal Sucre. Instead we ended up in "Old Town", the historical district. Though the opposite direction than intended, Old Town was quite interesting. We had lunch in a large market place with raw meat hanging in every which direction, and fruits, vegetables, soup and juice stands in every other direction. Of course we thought we would have "traveler's diarrhea", as they so euphemistically call it, after that meal, but alas, we still haven't been sick. Old Town had a large church and a theatre district as well as an art museum. HOwever, after three hours of being out we were exhausted (blame the altitude), and had to go back to the hostal for a siesta. We rested most of the first day in order to acclimatize.

Yesterday we were feeling a bit more physically stable, so we took a long walk through New Town, and on to the "Bohemian" town of Guapulo. If you've been to Greece, you know how steep residential roads can get. This cobble stone street was nothing less than a narrow ski slope. We crawled down for about a half hour to a large Church that appeared to have been converted to an International University. Finally we got a view of the surroundings of Quito - green and volcanic mountainsides all around. Grumpy from hunger, we sat down at a small mom and pop restaurant for the set lunch, or almuerzo, which consisted of potatoe and corn soup, rice, sourkrout, the most delicious chicken, and a fried plantain. The food here is wonderful, and lunch is generally $2 US per person (Ecuador is pegged to the US Dollar(. Needless to say, we did not walk back up the mountain street, but took a taxi half way back to our hostal, walked the rest of the way, then took another afternoon siesta.

Last night we decided to venture out, which was not as scary as the books say, and we went to a very Brittish pop quiz, or trivia night. We were teamed up with 3 Ecuadorians who wanted to practice their English, and in turn we practiced our Spanish a bit. We came in last place... oh well... How were 3 Ecuadorians and 2 North Americans to know that WHAM was the first Brittish pop group to tour China? Need I point out the bias?

By the way, I can't figure out how to type a question mark on this keyboard, and the spell check doesn't work, so excuse poor punctuation and spelling.

I'll admit it, we haven't taken any pictures yet. But I swear, we will!

We love you all,
Lauren and Andy

Tuesday, March 3, 2009

First Night in Quito

Here is Lauren´s Post. Andy may write his own...

Never have I had such an easy trip! We hardly waited in LA or in Miami, then when we got to Quito our taxi driver was waiting for us (although my name was spelled ¨Lauren Dowll¨), and he took us straight to our hostal. It is a really cool old building and we are on the top floor overlooking the courtyard. It is certainly worn down, but very clean with a nice cafe and several computers. We met one guy this morning from the Netherlands who was very friendly and assured us that during the day time, the area is very safe regardless of the many traveler safety advisories. That was nice to hear early in the morning.

We arrived around 11 pm last night and got to bed feeling a little light headed due to the high altitude, but this morning we feel well after a little food and water. We have been practicing our Spanish already. Most people so far seem to speak English, so they can correct us, but they prefer Spanish.

By the way, we are only 3 hours ahead of California because Ecuador does not use daylight savings time. I suppose they don´t need to since they are on the equator and sunlight is probably pretty consistant.

We are very happy, and the trip got off to a great and easy start. Today we will visit a travel center to get some tips on language programs and things to do. Apparently we can go to the exact (GPS located) equator and watch water flow down sinks in two different directions on either side of the equator. Pretty cool..

Today we will also look for a calling card. Everything is really cheap and I am very glad we decided not to bring a phone because we can call the US for 6 to 12 cents per minute from here, rather than the 2.50 per minute on an international cell phone. And it looks like we will have regular internet access unless we leave urban areas.