Straight Shot South

Pictures 1. Me, silly in field at Neverland Farm 2. Friends at Neverland farm

We left Ecuador nearly 2 weeks ago, and we have already been in the south for one week. The first week we spent most of our time in buses or combis (shared van-taxis that go where the bus lines don´t). We crossed in eastern-central Ecuador at Las Balsas where we had to take a rickety open aired truck to the border. Got stamped out, walked across a river, and got stamped into Peru. There is a little concern about the swine flu (la gripe) at the borders and transit terminals, but besides that it was very simple for us to cross. From there we spent two days in dusty transit towns taking combis because the buses didn´t run that far north and east.

Our first desination was Chachapoyas from where you can see the Incan ruin of Kuelap. Kuelap is similar to Machu Pichu, as it is a well preserved ancient city. The graduer probably does not match that of Machu Pichu, which means that neither does the tourism. We took a tour with a car full of local tourists and 2 germans. The ruin is high in altitude and has a magnificant view of the surrounding mountain ranges. I had to ´translate´for the germans with my really bad spanish, which was quite frustrating for all of us, especially the guide who was forced to speak at a elementary school level and still be misunderstood by the gringos. My spanish is getting better, but the constantly changing accent from town to town makes it quite difficult to develop an ear for it. Writing and reading is easier.

We ran-hiked down the mountain from Kuelap after the tour, met the car at the bottom, got bused back to town and hopped on a bus to the coast, Chiclayo. Chiclayo is a dusty, busy and hot port town. We didn´t see much there because we decided we wanted to get straight to the south after the frustration and heat of the north. After a day of waiting for a bus we caught a night bus to Lima. Spent about 8 hours in Lima and caught another night bus to Arequipa (in the south). Lima was big and modern in the financial-tourist district. We had no interest in staying in such a big city.

We have been in Arequipa for the last 4 days. The city is surrounded by large volcanoes that are usually snow capped, but one is predicted to blow soon so the ice has largely melted. The summits reach over 6000 meters (19,685 feet), which is quite sufficating for climbers. Recently, Incan child mummies were discovered in the summits near Arequipa, providing a wealth of information to researchers on sacrificial practices. There is a mummy in a museum here who was discovered completely frozen, with flesh, hair, muscles and liquids still intact after nearly 500 years of freezing. The Incas were amazingly strong and dedicated peoples to have hiked to such heights in sandals, without oxygen and carrying the elaborations necessary for a sacrifice. Researchers believe that childeren were sacrificed to appease the mountain gods when natural disasters like volcanic erruption occured. The children were chosen from birth, raised in a temple, and eventually sacrificed by a blow to the skull around the age of 12-14, depending on the various needs of the gods. Extremely interesting history and cultural practice. Similarly interesting is the geological situation of the area.

As in all of south america, there is also a lot of colonial history expressed through impressive monastaries, churches and religious art. It is not so much of my interest, probably because I don´t know the biblical stories. Today we went to a monastary that has been open for 400 years and is still functioning with 30 nuns. It is completely walled up and takes up several blocks with it´s internal streets. Beautiful and bizzare, as it was originally founded for only the wealthiest nuns who lived lavish lives with 1-4 slaves each. There are rumors of debauchery and excessive wealth within the walls prior to a major reform in 1870, however the stories about pregnant nuns seem to be simply unfounded rumors. The wealth on the other hand, was not, and can be seen in the china and silk displayed now in the museum. It only opened to the public in the 1970s. Before, the sisters were in complete isolation once admitted.

Tonight we go to Cusco to see Machu Pichu. It is expensive and touristy, and we orignially decided not to go. However, we are here, and it is a world wonder. I know it will be magnificant, even if I have to step over people with cameras to see it. After Cusco we go to Lake Titicaca and to Bolivia. We will end up spending only 3 weeks in Peru. The reason is that we could not find a farm to work on, and the next one is in Bolivia. The only way we will be able to extend our trip for as long as we want to is if we find work-trade opportunities to halt the spending. Bolivia is going to be a lot let touristy, cheaper and we have heard nothing but good things.

Congratulations to all of my friends who are graduating this month. Maybe you´ll meet me down here? I miss everyone and hope you will keep the e mails and comments coming.

Love,

Lauren

*Note on the posts, there are no new instructions on how to post. The only setting I could change was to make posting open to anyone, even without an account to this site. Again, I´m sorry if it is difficult to post.